Philosophy
Our philosophy of training is to first inspire behaviors with
motivation. Then through conditioning and repetition insure that they
are done precisely, reliably and with as much motivation as
possible.
Natural Behavior
Our advanced training programs contain both traditional exercises
(sit, down, etc.) as well as extremely advanced ones (Secure,
Protective Escape, Rest Assured) which are more complex to teach.
All exercises are broken down into behaviors which dogs
instinctively do naturally. There are the behaviors such as the “Sit”
or “Down” which are common everyday behaviors. They lay down to sleep
and sitting up was the first behavior they performed after crawling as
puppies.
Then there are the less common behaviors such as walking backwards
which is required for performing our “Secure” and “Protective Escape”
exercises. Obviously dogs do not come with a reverse option. Nor do we
see dogs walking backwards by themselves down the street. Yet when we
look to nature we do find the behavior. Dogs, like humans, when in a
tight restricted area and want to change directions instinctively do so
by trying to turn around. If that is not possible, what do they
instinctively do next – walk backwards!
The challenge is how to creatively inspire such natural behaviors
which are not used in everyday life. That is where as a company we have
had to become somewhat of “think tank” or research center of trainers
developing innovative methods and techniques.
Conditioning: the use of
positive and negative reinforcement
The use of positive versus negative reinforcement is often a source of controversy among professional trainers.
The use of positive reinforcement
is simple: motivate with something inspiring such as praise, affection,
toys and or food. If the motivation is linked enough times to a
behavior, and repeated enough times, it becomes habit. If performed
amidst distractions it becomes to some degree more reliable over time.
The fundamental problem is the issue of a dog choosing to do what is
most pleasurable. What happens when you call your dog, who absolutely
loves coming to you, and suddenly he or she sees a rabbit, a cat or
squirrel running across the yard? Coming to you sure is pleasurable.
Chasing the cat, rabbit or squirrel is even more so. Your beloved dog
who adores you will ignore your command to come and instead chase after
these sources of pleasure every time! Obviously the reliability
of purely positive motivational training is ultimately limited.
Negative reinforcement
creates reliability. A “do it or else” conversation gets results if the
consequences are great enough. In addition to reliability negative
reinforcement alone also creates an oppressive mentality at best, and a
fearful dog when taken to extremes. Effective in obtaining control but
not a very appealing method of training.
Balance
Our approach is one of balance. Again, we inspire with motivation to
create or induce behavior. We then condition through the use of both
positive and negative reinforcement. When it comes to positive reinforcement, or motivation, our criteria is simple: as much as possible. Our criteria for negative reinforcement is equally as simple: as much as needed and as little as possible.
The Nuts and Bolts
There are four phases to each dog's training program at CPI.
The
first is foundational training. This
is essential regardless of whether a dog is untitled
and has only begun training in a European dog sport
and has earned titles in basic obedience and protection
(sport of Schutzhund) or has earned advanced working
titles such as in the French Ring or Belgian Ring
Sports.
In
obedience our specialized foundational training
enables the dog
to perform
with
as much motivation
as possible on a long term basis, and without the
need for on-going conditioning or rewards. To return
to such
basics when a dog is already performing off-leash
obedience usually delays the finishing process
by two to four weeks. The end result is a dog that finds
obeying his owners
deeply
rewarding.
In protection this foundational training ranges from
imprinting and development of drives to biting
and
fighting
skills
depending on
which training program the dog has entered. Instincts
and skills you may need to rely upon should you ever
encounter a threatening situation.
This behind
the scenes training while time consuming, and costly
from a stand point of labor, is time and money well spent.
Your enjoyment of your dog, and their's of you, depends
on
it as does your safety and well being.
The second phase is the teaching of specific skills.
In obedience this includes all of the advanced exercises needed for
complete off-leash control. In protection this ranges from basic
through advanced handler protection skills, depending on which program
the dog is being trained in.
The
third phase is functionality. The
third phase expands the dog's understanding of the
advanced exercises from "classroom",
or in our case training room, to a functional understanding.
In human terms this would be similar to someone
studying a martial art, learning a series of skills
such as blocks, then learning how to apply them.
The concept of applying them would typically start
with learning how a specific block could be used
against a specific strike.
The
forth phase is integration. Dogs
are somewhat like people, at least in
the way that they can compartmentalize information. Just
as you may know the name of someone in one context
such
as your office building, yet outside of the office
you may run into them and draw a blank. The same
happens
with dog's when responding to commands in obedience
and protection or with manners. Our task of integration
therefore
requires
creating as many different mind sets (playful, affectionate,
tired, just waking up, etc.), physiologies
(laying down, standing, etc.) and environments
(inside of a house, car, stair cases, etc.) as
possible and requiring whatever exercises the
dog would least likely expect.
Foundational
Protection - The Basics of Protection
(included
in all of our training programs)
Development of Drives
The first phase of training is to imprint and
develop specific drives that will be required of your dog should you
ever be faced with a threat. These include defense imprinting, the
development of active aggression, active prey and fighting drive.
Bite Development
This development of drives is followed with bite
development training. This training includes developing the strength
and fullness of bite, as well as speed and targeting capabilities when
sent over a distance to attack. Once completed we teach biting skills
which include biting the front and back of the legs, abdomen, the
outside of the upper arm, the outside of the low arm, the inside of the
lower arm and finally the inside of the upper arm.
Foundational
Protection - Advanced Skills
Strategic Targeting
We usually end the bite development phase with the
inside of the upper right arm as part of teaching strategic targeting.
As most people are right handed, if they are carrying a weapon there
ability to use it will be eliminated. The leverage of an upper arm/
shoulder bite taken straight on in most cases makes it completely
immobile.
In
the cases of smaller dogs we will sometimes teach the
crotch area for strategic targeting. While this does
leave the
dog more open for assault, the physical pain inflicted
along with the psychological leverage (or should we
say panic!), combined with the physical leverage gained
by controlling their center of gravity and effecting
balance can quickly subdue the most violent of attackers.
Fighting Skills
Once
biting skills are taught fighting skills are then added
to the program. The dog is taught to maintain their
initial bite unless fought. In the case of being fought
the dog must counter being fought by transferring their
bite from one location to another, as needed. This
also addresses the issue of a left handed person with
a weapon initially being bitten in the inside of the
upper right arm. As soon as they lift their left arm
to strike the dog, or use a weapon, the dog transfers
his or her bite to immobilize the left arm. The dog
will continue to counter attack as needed until the
threat is subdued and he or she is commanded to release.
The countering of attacks through transferring bites
begins the first phase of teaching fighting skills. We then teach the
dog how to fight violent attackers, increasing the fight as
they are fought back, overcoming whatever physical obstacles or
limitations they may encounter and the mental conditioning essential to
endure violence over a prolonged period of time.
The dogs chosen for our Elite Family and Estate
Security Dog by CPI™ program continue to receive still further training
in advanced fighting skills.
Advanced
Handler Protection Strategies
Our
dogs are trained to respond to threats in a variety
of
ways depending on the type of threat, degree of threat
and the command given by the owner. A strategy that
works
within one situation may not be the optimal response
in another. The dog and owner with the most options
is better
prepared to respond to whatever situation they are confronted
with.
The following are examples of our
protective strategies and how they may be of benefit to
you.
Aggressive
Alert
Our
protection dogs are all trained to
instantly respond to any threat, regardless of its nature.
In more specific terms, your dog will respond on command
with an intense level of aggression and will do so for
an extended period of time. The command need only
be said
once in a normal tone with aggression reaching a maximum
level within 1 to 3 seconds. This aggression will
continue
until a second command is given, also just once in a
normal tone, to stop or "turn off". Your dog will
respond in this manner whenever instructed to do so,
regardless of
whether the threat is aggressive - such as someone shouting
and making threatening gestures at you, forceful -
such
as someone making inappropriate advances and refusing
to stop, or a situation in which you simply anticipate
a possible threat as in the following example:
You
are taking your dog for a walk, it is dusk, and
someone
who is walking towards you on the other side of the
street suddenly crosses the street to your side.
More than likely he is not a threat, nor would it
be appropriate
to threaten him with your dog. If, however, you have
any concerns, as he crosses the street to your side
you quietly give your dog a command to respond aggressively.
As your dog shows aggression you simply "apologize"
for having this "aggressive" dog who has already "bitten
other people" and that you are about to have your
veterinarian
"put the dog to sleep" the following day.
Whether
the person did in fact intend harm or not, he is immediately
going to cross back over to the other side of the street
and will not think you have just threatened him. You are
safe, they feel sorry for you having such a "lunatic"
for a dog, and your dog finds it somewhat entertaining.
More importantly, the ability to have your dog respond
aggressively, regardless of the threat, alleviates any
feeling of vulnerability, and replaces it with a sense
of safety and security.
As
most people are not threatened on a regular basis, the
following example also illustrates the functional use
of this "Aggressive Alert".
The
doorbell rings, it is late in the evening, and you
ask with
the door locked, "Who is it?" You find out that it
is a neighbor from down the street. You tell him to
wait
just a minute and look out the window. It is in fact
the neighbor. However, you just know him to wave to
as you pass by him on your way home. You are aware
that you know nothing about him and that most crimes
which
take place in the home are perpetrated by someone the
victim knows. At the same time being unwilling to
open
the door for your neighbor also seems inappropriate.
One
response is to give your dog the Aggressive Alert command before you open the door. While holding on to
his collar, you now open the door with the dog showing
aggression at maximum intensity. After just a few seconds
of this intense aggression you give the dog the command
to "turn off" with an "aggressive" voice,
appearing that you are "correcting" him for being aggressive.
You apologize for the dog being so "protective" and
politely ask your neighbor what you can do for him.
Directed
Alerts
Our
Directed Alerts enable you to specify who specifically
to have the dog direct his or her aggression towards.
This training also provides the ability to
redirect the dog from one person to another with a
simple command
and
indication by pointing.
Directed
Attacks
Our Directed
Attacks enable you to specify who specifically to have
the dog attack.
Once the dog is biting someone you can redirect the
dog from one person to another.
Without
this specialized training the dog would need to be
commanded to release his or her bite, be called back
to you, and then directed to attack the new person. This is old school.
You have three people approaching you to rob or
otherwise assault you (such as the typical home invasion). Your dog has
been "turned on" in an attempt to deter the threat. One of the three
pulls out a hand gun. You now need your dog to do more then just show
aggression while you back out of the situation. You need your dog to
attack. Once your dog attacks the person with the weapon you are now
vulnerable to their other two accomplices.
You're already in
a crisis state. Thinking clearly is no longer your strong suit. You now
have two people coming at you and your dog is away from you biting the
person who had the weapon.
In a violent situation with multiple attackers a fraction of a
second makes a world of difference. You need to be able to react
quickly. You need to react instinctively. You need to simply point and
command. It needs to also be second nature to your dog. No steps
involved. You need a dog schooled in Directed Attacks.
The Reality
It
takes just 1.5 seconds for someone to travel 20 feet
when attacking you. It takes the brain 7/8 of
a
second to initiate a response. That leaves 5/8 of
a second
for the solution.
The ideal solution enables you to initiate a response while instantly creating distance. That is the Secure exercise.
Aggressive
Secure
The Aggressive Secure command enables you to command
your dog while off-leash to protect a 360 degree radius around you.
Your dog will immediately run to your side on command and remain there
to protect you from anyone approaching from any direction. If someone
approaches your dog will position himself or herself in between you and
that person while showing aggression. If the person where to try to
approach from a different angle the dog would immediately move to
insure he is positioned in between you and the threat. The command can
be given while walking or standing still. If the command is given while
walking the dog will perform in the same way as standing still. In the
case of someone approaching from behind the dog will walk backwards
beside you in order to face the person as they approach. The entire
time the dog is showing aggression. The dog will only attack if he or
she is instructed by you, or if you are physically assaulted. Until
then the person can come up to you, or pass by without any altercation
with the dog.
If you are threatened, or are about to be, the
Aggressive Secure will provide a very convincing deterrent. This level
of aggression combined with the level of performance clearly
demonstrates - this is not your average dog, nor even your average
protection dog. It is a sight to behold!
Covert Secure
The covert secure functions in exactly the same way
as the Aggressive Secure but without any outward sign of aggression. On
command the dog immediately positions himself beside you, is aware of
everything going on around you, and positions himself or herself
between you and anyone approaching. The dog is actually "turned on" but
is just in "stealth" mode. Should anyone attempt to assault you the dog
is prepared to immediately stop them. Naturally the dog is ready,
willing and able at any moment to also attack if a command is given.
Again, as most people are not threatened on a
regular basis, the following example also illustrates the functional
use of this "Covert Secure".
You are walking down the street and
notice someone is approaching from behind. As in most cases they are
probably not a threat, but you are unsure and want to feel safe and
secure. You simply give the command for the Covert Secure and your dog
takes care of the rest. The person will immediately notice that your
dog is suddenly "glued" to your side while walking backwards and a
laser like focus set on them! No outward sign of aggression. No drawing
attention. Just an intense looking dog, walking backwards with eyes
locked on to their every move.
If they did
intend harm they will in all likelihood think twice. As a matter of
fact in all likelihood the person is going to either immediately cross
the street or go out of their way to walk around you. And maintain a
good distance while doing so.
The innocent
passerby might notice what an interesting dog you have to be able to
walk backwards. They can safely approach, or walk by, without any
threat of harm from the dog. At any time the dog can be "turned off"
and be allowed to greet the stranger, "turned on" with any number of
commands including the "Aggressive Secure", or simply be left in the
covert secure while you carry on a casual conversation a foot away from
this person. The choice is yours.
Protective
Escape
The
Protective Escape is used to back yourself out
of a threatening situation. This enables you to remain
protected while seeking a safe haven. When giving the
command for the Protective Escape your dog instantly
responds with an intense levels of aggression, as with
the Aggressive Alert*. The difference is that with
the Protective Escape
your dog has been taught how to walk backwards while showing
aggression. You simply hold the collar, give the command and the dog
remains by your side while at level 10 aggression. Many clients have
referred to this as having "power steering"!
This exercise also provides an excellent option in
comparison to the Aggressive Alert* for individuals lacking in size or
strength.
*
When given the command for the Aggressive Alert your
dog shows aggression while pulling at the end of the leash
towards the threatening individual. This requires a level
of strength that may be challenging for some of your family
members. The Protective Escape provides the solution.
It offers the same benefits as the Aggressive Alert
in a more manageable way.
Rest Assured by CPI™
Our newest exercise is the Rest Assured by CPI™.
The need: Many of our clients want the highest level
of protection while they are asleep. At the same time between guests,
contractors and domestic help entering the home on an ongoing basis
many clients do not want their dogs stopping people from entering. As a
result most dogs bark to alert the owner that someone is approaching
but if the person just walks into the home the dog immediately accepts
them. (Of course if the person is not welcomed the dog is able to
be instructed to secure the house and in turn the dog does not allow
anyone to enter.)
The solution: On command the dog goes directly to a
specified area. The area can be the same or change depending on the
circumstance. Usually the area typically chosen is at the end of a
hallway where bedrooms are located. (If it is a house with two
floors with bedrooms on the second floor the location would typically
be at the top of the stairs. This provides a view of the downstairs and
bedrooms at the same time.)
Once under command the dog remains there ready to
alert and defend if necessary. Should someone approach from any
direction the dog remains in the specified place but stands up and
begins barking. As long as the person does not attempt to enter the
specified area the dog remains in place. Should someone foolishly
choose to violate this area the dog automatically stops them.
The Rest Assured by CPI™ exercise bridges the gap
between the need for a friendly dog that accepts everyone during the
day (unless instructed otherwise) and a highly trained dog that allows
no one to enter the bedroom area or any other specified. We assume this
exercise will have additional benefits that will be explored over time.